Order Up

In defining an area’s growth, there is gradual incremental growth, there is better-than-average growth, and there is breathless, whomping “Leland Growth.”

According to the U.S. Census Bureau, Leland’s population surged 70 percent from 2010 to 2020, when nearly 23,000 were recorded as living in the town. 

Things haven’t slowed down, as the Bureau broke out the 15 fastest-growing cities and towns (with populations of 20,000 or more) between July 1, 2023, and July 1, 2024. With a projected total population of more than 34,000 and a 9.2 percent growth rate, Leland was ranked as the 14th-fastest growing town or city. Although one could fairly argue that Leland’s boom is a result of Wilmington’s maturation as a cultural, business, tourist and culinary destination. 

Growth, whether slow and steady or “whomping” sprints like Leland’s, almost never develops in perfect synchronicity in the infrastructure and retail amenities puzzle. That is certainly true of the restaurants that are yet to come trailing behind the population boom. Restaurants are in phase one in Leland; a high concentration of the roughly 60 are primarily franchise establishments with a casual or fast-food association.  

Never mind the recurring resident buzz along the lines of “We really need more good restaurants here.” No matter the genuine urgency of people’s clamor for more and better, there is a process for these essential staples of life to be built and/or opened up. 

Leaders like Leland Town Councilman Bill McHugh emphasize that the road to getting to those grand openings is strewn with a number of unavoidable details. “Especially for restaurants who are building out new construction,” said McHugh, “there’s often the matter of clearing land, responsibility for connector streets, electrical, water. 

“And yes, there’s the overall cost of construction and everything, which can easily reach seven figures and are more easily handled by deeper-pocketed franchises. We know what the need is, but it’s the decision of the future owners to locate here – we can’t just order it to happen.” 

McHugh adds that hotels can be and often are the natural catalysts for adjacent restaurants coming in, like moths to a 300-room short-stay flame.  

“Once hotels are in, they inevitably attract restaurants,” he said. “With our new hotels like Tru by Hilton, Marriott and prospectively Hampton Suites, we believe that growth will occur.” 

The emotional appeal of events such as the N.C. Rice Festival in nearby Winnabow engender a stirring reminder of the area’s cultural roots, McHugh said. 

“Having something that spotlights the Gullah Geechee culture,” he said, “helps us better understand how far we’ve come. Leland also hosts the N.C. Gullah Geechee Cultural Heritage Festival, with Gullah Geechee-themed performances and an authentic four-course dinner.” 

Chingon Taqueria is a Leland restaurant that has made its imprint on the town and on the Wilmington region. Like so many businesses, the innovative Mexican-themed restaurant opened up its doors on the eve of the COVID-19 pandemic.  

Founder and owner Alex Zaragoza came to North Carolina from Mexico 25 years ago and in keeping with his self-proclaimed workaholic nature doesn’t often make it back. Opening Chingon Taqueria in late 2019 was at first of a growing eatery footprint. 

Zaragoza is also a part owner of the popular Peruvian Chicken restaurant Papi’s Chicken less than a mile away on Route 17 in Leland. Chingon opened up a second location in Wilmington to serve those many customers who were looking to satisfy their taqueria cravings without crossing the Cape Fear. 

One of the newer additions to the Leland restaurant scene is represented by Al’s Burger Shack, which opened up in November. The restaurant’s Bobo Chili Cheeseburger in 2018 was voted Best Burger in America by Trip Advisor. The honored, signature burger is topped with chili sauce, coleslaw, onion, yellow mustard and American cheese. 

Business partners Charlie Farris and Jason Kesler met and became friends at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill and eventually – after Kesler spent his first nine years as a maritime lawyer – connected to buy and manage a number of Jersey Mike’s locations that now number about 30. Those include the Leland Jersey Mike’s, a chip shot away from Al’s Burger Shack. 

Kesler grew up in Wilmington, graduating from Hoggard High School in 2000 and remembers the time when Leland was a lot of farmland.  

“It had become a challenge to find locations in the Triangle, and we saw there was opportunity here,” he said. “Lucky for us, Charlie became aware that Al’s might be up for sale, and we were able to move on that.” 

The restaurant also offers vegetarian options such as black bean and Impossible burgers. Kesler and Ferris decided that far too few restaurants in Southeastern North Carolina had good, family-friendly children’s menus.  

“I know it seems obvious,” Kesler said. “But we thought that was key to bringing up the happiness level of families – and children who drive those food decisions.” 

One of the more interesting coming development projects in the Leland area is the Belville Downtown project on the Brunswick River, just “upstream” from the Brunswick Riverwalk at Belville, a park heavily utilized by area residents. The project’s discussion, stakeholder surveys and SWOT analysis began almost 20 years ago, and are poised to reach fruition, starting with an existing boardwalk expansion.  

The town has also drafted a highly-detailed master plan for the project, Belville Vision 2030, which lays out an ambitious wish list. They include a hotel, an amphitheater and a marina that could possibly include a restaurant in the vein of the Dockside restaurant at Wrightsville Beach. Boaters would be able to dock their boats there and visit the restaurant. The town has contracted with developer Urban Smart Growth to carry through development plans.

Athina Williams, Belville’s town manager, conveys that they have visited several other riverfront locales, including Savannah, to glean ideas. Among other plans, Belville has discussed with Wilmington the possibility of a water taxi running from Wilmington to the new downtown. 

“We have universal support from area residents and stakeholders like the utility companies,” Williams said. “It’s exciting to consider how our upcoming downtown can turn into something magnificent, not just for Belville but for everyone in Brunswick and New Hanover counties. And I need to add that 85 percent of our survey respondents chose dining at restaurants as their top choice for our development.”